TY - JOUR TI - Comparison of sewn fabric bending rigidities obtained by heart loop method: effects of different stitch types and seam directions AU - Sukran, Kara T2 - Industria Textila AB - Sewing quality is an important factor that contributes to the overall quality of an end-product. Sewing quality compro - mises different components such as bending, seam strength, seam slippage, elasticity etc. Among these components, bending has a special importance because of causing changes in appearance, sensorial comfort and drape of a garment. Therefore, in this study, effects of stitch type and seam direction on the bending rigidities of sewn fabrics were evaluated and compared. A polyester woven fabric which is suitable for sportswear was sewn with three basic stitch types (lock stitch, chain stitch and overlock stitch), in 5 different directions (warp, weft, 30°, 45° and 60° angles). As reference, samples without stitches were tested, too. Bending properties of samples were determined via heart loop method. According to the results, sewing increased the fabric bending rigidity. The degree of bending rigidity increment was dependent on the stitch type. Highest bending rigidity values were obtained for overlock stitched samples those were approximately 4 times higher when compared to non-sewn reference samples. Thickness of sewn parts was in accordance with the bending rigidity results. For oriented seams, bias sewing especially for 45˚ oriented samples, showed the most advantageous bending results. This study showed the usability of heart loop method for sewn samples via consistent results for different stitch types and seam directions. DA - 2020/04/30/ PY - 2020 DO - 10.35530/IT.071.02.1647 DP - DOI.org (Crossref) VL - 71 IS - 02 SP - 105 EP - 111 SN - 12225347 ST - Comparison of sewn fabric bending rigidities obtained by heart loop method UR - http://revistaindustriatextila.ro/images/2020/2/002_KARA%20SUKRAN_Industria%20Textila%20no%202_2020.pdf Y2 - 2020/05/26/09:47:10 ER -