Issue 1 / 2018 
Article: Comfort properties of nano-filament polyester fabrics: sensory evaluation
Authors: MUSADDAQ AZEEM, AMAL BOUGHATTAS, HAFIZ FAISAL SIDDIQUE, ANTONIN HAVELKA, SAJID HUSSAIN
Pages: 3-10
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1440
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
In this article, an experimental work is presented to evaluate the sensorial properties of polyester fabric constructed by
nano-filament yarn. For this purpose Nano Filament polyester fabric was fabricated and compared with the spun
polyester/cotton (PC) and polyester/viscose (PV) blended fabric by using Kawabata evaluation system (KES-system) to
assess the handle of the fabric based on mechanical characteristic. The results revealed that the fabric made from PC
and PV blended fabric were stiffer than nano-filament polyester fabric. The higher hand value (THV) resulted in lower
stiffness (Koshi), and higher smoothness (Numeri) and fullness (Fukurami). Hand values of PV blended fabric were close
to nano-filament polyester fabric rather than PC fabric. The overall results of tensile, shearing, bending, compression
and surface characteristics of nano-filament polyester fabric were found best as compared to PC and PV blended fabric.
Keywords: Sensorial comfort, Fabric handle, Nano-filament polyester fabric, PC and PV blended fabric
Citation: Azeem, M., Boughattas, A., Siddique, H.F., Havelka, A., Hussain, S., Comfort properties of nano-filament polyester fabrics: sensory evaluation, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 3–10, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1440
Full text PDF
Article: A comparative analysis of air-jet yarn properties with the properties of ring spun yarns
Authors: HÜSEYİN GAZİ TÜRKSOY, TUĞBA AKKAYA, DENİZ VURUŞKAN, SÜMEYYE ÜSTÜNTAĞ
Pages 11-16
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1419
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
Ring spinning is the most common method used among the short staple fibers spinning methods. Due to limitations of
the production speed in the ring spinning, new spinning methods become more popular with each passing day. Air-jet
spinning systems gathered attention with their market share in the new spinning methods. In this study, the properties
of the air-jet yarns were comparatively analyzed with the properties of the equivalent Ring yarns, for both single and
ply-twisted forms. It was found that the Rieter and Murata air-jet yarns do not show significant differences in terms of
physical properties of yarns. Due to their special structure, air-jet yarns show lower hairiness and tenacity values when
compared to the equivalent Ring yarns.
Keywords: air-jet yarn, Murata Vortex Spinner, Rieter air-jet spinning, Ring yarn, yarn properties
Citation: Türksoy, H.G., Akkaya, T., Vuruşkan, D., Üstüntağ, S., A comparative analysis of air-jet yarn properties with the properties of ring spun yarns, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 11–16, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1419
Full text PDF
Article: Effects of process variables on physical characteristics of tri-component elastic-conductive composite yarns (t-ECCYs) using a modified ring frame
Authors: WANG YONG, YU WEIDONG, WANG FUMEI
Pages 17-23
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1397
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
The fabrication procedure of tri-component elastic-conductive composite yarns (t-ECCYs) with distinctive architecture,
which employs elastane filament as a core and stainless steel filament combining with rayon assemblies as a helical
winding around the extensible core, was demonstrated. Then, a single factorial-analysis technique was applied to
investigate the effects of processing variables, i.e., strand spacing, twist level and spindle speed, on some physical
characteristics and spinning geometries of the resultant yarns, in terms of breaking tenacity, extension at break,
elasticity, hairiness, unevenness, and visual features. Then, the electrical behavior was conducted. It is well established
that the preparatory process variables play a significant role in deciding the physical characteristics of the final yarns.
The Relationship between spinning geometries and yarn properties were highlighted. Experimental results revealed that
the optimized physical performances of t-ECCYs were obtained at 10.5 mm strand spacing, 700 T/m twist, and 7000
rpm spindle speed. The resultant t-ECCYs could be a high-valuable proposition for special purposes in electrical textiles.
The yarn itself is available as a base sensor element with substantial stretch and high conductivity, and such yarns could
be easily processed into fabrics by conventional textile means offering fabrics with good shape preservation based on
superior elasticity, even electromagnetic shielding effectiveness with metal monofilament inside, and can thus be applied
as lightweight miniature electronics in the future.
Keywords: elastic-conductive composite yarn, process variables, elastane filament, stainless steel wire, functional
textile, modified ring spinning
Citation: Yong, W., Weidong, Y., Fumei, W., Effects of process variables on physical characteristics of tri-component elastic-conductive composite yarns (t-ECCYs) using a modified ring frame, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 17–23, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1397
Full text PDF
Article: Developing a modular apparel safety architecture for supply chain management: the apparel recycle perspective
Authors: LIHONG CHEN, HONG YU, XINFENG YAN
Pages 24-30
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1380
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
This paper introduces the special issue on strategic choices for recyclable clothing implementation. Substantial private
implementation is needed if company management objectives to increase the share of recyclable clothing and prevent
dangerous clothing risk be achieved. The aim of this paper, and the entire special issue, is to draw scholarly attention
to the processes underlying strategic choices for recyclable clothing implementation. An modular apparel safety
architecture (MASA) framework for supply chain management was developed and implemented to provide guidelines
for apparel designers and manufactures to solve safe and sustainable problems related to apparel production. The
MASA framework was developed by integrating modular theory and product recyclable concept into existing apparel
design and production. Children’s clothing design and production was used to implement the MASA framework as a
proof concept. The MASA framework is the first apparel design and production model that emphasizes safety and
recyclability in addition to functional, expressive, and aesthetic considerations. The originality of this work is its ability to
combine social, technical, environmental and economic aspects using modular theory in order to provide a more holistic
point of view on factors impacting recyclable clothing system through the design and development of recyclable
management modules.
Keywords: apparel safety, recyclable apparel system, modular design, supply chain management
Citation: Chen, L., Yu, H., Yan, X., Developing a modular apparel safety architecture for supply chain management: the apparel recycle perspective, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 24–30, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1380
Full text PDF
Article: Redesign and upcycling – a solution for the competitiveness of small and medium-sized enterprises in the clothing industry
Authors: SUNHILDE CUC, SIMONA TRIPA
Pages 31-36
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1417
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
The paper aims to open a new field of research applicable to small and medium enterprises in the clothing industry,
namely, the focus on new product design by increasing the efficiency of fabric use and recycling and a value chain
perspective that concentrates on downstream in the chain. The main objective of this paper is to present how small and
medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in the clothing industry can achieve a competitive advantage by using a sustainable
approach. This study provides useful solutions for understanding the product development processes for fashion to
rethink, reuse or upcycle the waste in the production stage. We propose a better connection between different links of
the value chain: design, production, marketing to create fashion items so when possible, this waste to be used to make
new products and highlights the advantages of implementing this solution. Sustainable production can be a way of
gaining a competitive advantage. This strategy can be successful by integrating the vertical value chain by strengthening
the creative department, fashion design, and involvement in marketing and sales. In the clothing industry, the strategy
of integrating design and retail can lead to a more flexible design process and, therefore, to an increased product
performance.
Keywords: competitiveness, clothing, SMEs, sustainability, upcycling
Citation: Cuc, S., Tripa, S., Redesign and upcycling –a solution for the competitiveness of small and medium-sized enterprises in the clothing industry, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 31–36, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1417
Full text PDF
Article: Change in Textile and Clothing Industry
Author: LIVIU TUDOR
Pages 37-43
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1449
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
Traditionally, Textile and Clothing Industry has been known for its incremental changes but the current global business
environment creates the premises of multiple organizational disruptive changes. Change Management helps people to
transition structural change in a positive and efficient manner. Small and medium enterprises in Textile and Clothing
Industry face a particular set of challenges – new technologies requiring high investments, relocation arbitrage on labor
costs, regional industry protectionism, volatile consumer preferences, need for new managerial skills etc. – all these
demanding a rebalance of managerial focus from operational excellence to strategic and change management
excellence. A Change Management Model, with associated implementation discipline and attention to global market
trends, represents a necessity for current managers active in Textile and Clothing Market.
Keywords: textile industry, clothing, change management, change model
Citation: Tudor, L., Change in Textile and Clothing Industry, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1,
37–43, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1449
Full text PDF
Article: The gamma radiation shielding effectiveness of textured steel yarn based fabrics
Authors: HAKAN ÖZDEMIR, BERKAY CAMGÖZ
Pages 44-49
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1347
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
Lead aprons that are lead-shielding products are generally used for personal protection of physicians and patients from
X-ray (gamma) radiation during medical operations; lead has environmental disadvantages, with high toxicity, though.
Therefore, the aim of this research was to produce an environmentally friendly and flexible textile-based radiation
shielding material. In this work, 2/2 twill, 3/1 twill, Herringbone, Whipcord, which are twill derivatives, Barathea and
Crêpe woven fabrics, which are sateen derivatives, woven with textured steel yarns, which have soft feeling and
flexibility, and gamma radiation shielding effectiveness of these fabrics were investigated and were not studied in the
references.
The effects of fabric structural characteristics such as weave, conductive weft yarn density, fabric thickness and porosity
on these properties were analysed graphically and statistically. It is observed that with the biggest thicknesses and
lowest porosities, Barathea and Crêpe woven fabrics performed better gamma radiation shielding performance than
other woven fabrics. The samples F1 and E1, woven with Barathea and Crêpe weave, have the highest gamma
radiation shielding effectiveness, thanks to the highest fabric thicknesses and lowest porosities. In addition, the
increases of textured steel yarn density improved the gamma radiation shielding effectiveness of woven fabrics.
Keywords: twill weave, derivative weave, woven fabrics, gamma radiation, gamma radiation shielding effectiveness,
textured steel yarn
Citation: Özdemir, H., Camgöz, B., The gamma radiation shielding effectiveness of textured steel yarn based fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 44–49, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1347
Full text PDF
Article: SIO2 aerogels and its application in firefighter protective clothing
Authors: JAWAD NAEEM, ADNAN MAZARI, ENGIN AKCAGUN, ZDENEK KUS
Pages 50-54
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1399
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
This article focuses our attention on utility of silica based aerogel as insulation materials in protective clothing especially
for fire fighters at higher temperature. In past, aerogels were employed for insulation of buildings, aeronautics and
aerospace applications. Later on, researchers determined the utility of aerogels as insulated substrate in protective
clothing. Several investigations revealed insulation properties of aerogel at elevated temperature. There are several
different types of aerogel but in this article, the main emphasis is on silica based aerogel because of its excellent
insulation and outstanding flame proof properties along with thermal stability at raised temperature. By applying suitable
coating techniques, aerogel can be impregnated into nonwoven substrates, which can be employed as thermal barriers
resulting in enhancement of the protective capability of multilayered clothing at higher temperature. All these
characteristics make aerogel a potential candidate to be used as insulation material in protective clothing at elevated
temperature.
Keywords: aerogels, thermal insulation, thermal conductivity, protective clothing
Citation: Naeem, J., Mazari, A., Akcagun, E., Kus, Z., SIO2 aerogels and its application in firefighter protective clothing, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 50–54, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1399
Full text PDF
Article: Nanofibres made from biocompatible and biodegradable polymers, with potential application as medical textiles
Authors: ADRIANA-IOANA SUBTIRICA, CRISTINA ANTONELA BANCIU, ANDREEA ANA-MARIA CHIVU, LAURENTIU CHRISTIAN DINCA
Pages 55-58
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1502
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
An important and growing part of the textile industry is the medical and related healthcare and hygiene sector. Recently,
ultrafine fiber webs made from biocompatible and biodegradable polymers have been obtained by the electrospinning
process. Their unique properties such as high surface area-to-volume ratio, small pore sizes, high porosity, and the
possibility of incorporation therapeutic compounds into the electrospun nanofibers has attracted the researcher’s
attention lately. This paper presents the obtaining of PEO and PVA nanofibers.
Keywords: electrospinning, nanofiber, web, poly (vinyl alcohol), poly (ethylene oxide)
Citation: Subtirica, A.I., Banciu, C.A., Chivu, A.A.-M., Dinca, L.C., Nanofibres made from biocompatible and biodegradable polymers, with potential application as medical textiles, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 55–58, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1502
Full text PDF
Article: Application of 3D-to-2D garment design for atypical morphology: a design case for physically disabled people with scoliosis
Authors: YAN HONG, PASCAL BRUNIAUX, JUNJIE ZHANG, KAIXUAN LIU, MIN DONG, YAN CHEN
Pages 59-64
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1377
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
3D-to-2D garment design method emerges as a novel design solution for automatic garment design and production,
especially for consumers with atypical morphology. In this paper, we introduced an application case of designing a
personalized garment for physically disabled people with scoliosis (PDPS) using 3D-to-2D garment design method. A
pattern modification model is proposed in order to satisfy the requirement of design automation. The proposed
modification model is based on the evaluation of the 3D virtual try-on result using the professional knowledge of the
designers. Research results indicate that 3D-to-2D garment design can effectively realize personalized design for
atypical morphology. Also, using sensory evaluation, professional design knowledge of the designers can be fully
applied to control the 2Dtechnical space of garment design based on the perception of 3D garment virtual try-on result.
Keywords: atypical morphology, virtual design, 3D-to-2D, knowledge-based process
Citation: Hong, Y., Bruniaux, P., Zhang, J., Liu, K., Dong, M., Chen, Y., Application of 3D-TO-2D garment design for atypical morphology: a design case for physically disabled people with scoliosis, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 59–64, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1377
Full text PDF
Article: Effect of paste properties as inkjet printing film and Mathematical Model to Follow the Kinetic of Wetting Phenomenon
Authors: ZOUHAIER ROMDHANI, MOHAMED HAMDAOUI, AMAL CHEBIL, MUSTAPHA JENDOUBI
Pages 65-74
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1366
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
Inkjet printing is a type of non-impact printing with the ability to produce high quality color images. The application of this
procedure is very delicate in term of the paste composition and the operative conditions. In this field, firstly the present
paper investigates the drying morphologies for the coating film. Then, the effect of film compounds which are widely as
functional coatings in textile was studied. Results show that the drying condition and the system thickener – urea
compounds affect deeply the film coating morphology. Furthermore, the wetting and the impregnation behaviors are
directly related to the studied system compounds and the experiment applications. Finally, these obtained results are
confirmed by the wetting behavior on the knitted polyamide fabrics.
Keywords: inkjet printing, thickener, drying morphology, wetting
Citation: Romdhani, Z., Hamdaoui, M., Chebil, A., Jendoubi, M., Effect of paste properties as inkjet printing film and Mathematical Model to Follow the Kinetic of Wetting Phenomenon, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 65–74, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1366
Full text PDF
Article: Formalizing the conceptual-applicative framework of smart textile fibers in medicine
Authors: DIANA LORETA PĂUN, CONSTANTIN SORIN PĂUN, LAURENȚIU ALEXANDRU CHIOTOROIU, EMILIA VISILEANU, SILVIA CHIOTOROIU
Pages 75-78
DOI: 10.35530/IT.069.01.1458
Published online: February 2018
Abstract
The article addresses issues related to the discipline of medical surgery requiring special fiber features with
physicochemical material potential and strongly controlled resistance properties. The proposed classifications and lines
of approach of textile fibers in general medicine, and in particular in surgery, are of a teleological nature and equally are
prerequisites for generic taxonomy in the field. The original proposal in this context is to expand the multi-type dimension
of surgical wounds in specific clinical operations, starting from the finding that in fact cantoning in the fixed-type
size/exclusive circular shape of the surgical thread means stagnation, moderation of innovation of rupture in the field.
Keywords: textile industry, smart textile fibers in medicine, generic taxonomy in the field
Citation: Păun, D.L., Păun, C.S., Chiotoroiu, L.A., Visileanu, E., Chiotoroiu, S., Formalizing the conceptual-applicative framework of smart textile fibers in medicine, In: Industria Textila, 2018, 69, 1, 75–78, http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.069.01.1458
Full text PDF