Issue 3 / 2023

Inner covers

Article: Textile industry and coronavirus – the impact of the pandemic on sales performance: a case study of Inditex

Authors: IVANA RAĐENOVIĆ, DANICA LEČIĆ-CVETKOVIĆ, TEODORA RAJKOVIĆ, NENAD ANIČIĆ
Pages: 259–266
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202237
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

The global coronavirus pandemic has caused major problems in the business of companies in the textile and fashion industry all over the world. This pandemic contributed to the development and increasing application of e-business. It also caused increased development of online sales for many companies to meet customer demands in uncertain market conditions. The main objective of the paper is to present the potentiality of the application of a defined set of key performance indicators (KPIs) for measuring and comparative analysis of sales performance in the year due pandemic (2020) and the year before the pandemic (2019). KPIs were defined based on the parameters that were the most exposed to changes during the emergence of a coronavirus disease. The analysis is conducted on the example of one of the leading companies in the textile and fashion industry, Inditex. Based on the results, it can be concluded that despite a significant reduction in total sales in 2020, Inditex managed to achieve a high sales success rate, although the sales target achievement rate was lower compared to the previous year. According to a unique business model based on a global, flexible, digitally integrated, and sustainable online platform, Inditex had a big increase in online sales, which had a key role in the year of the pandemic when 640 retail stores were closed.
Keywords: textile and fashion industry, sales, key performance indicators, coronavirus pandemic, Inditex

Citation: Rađenović, I., Lečić-Cvetković, D., Rajković, T., Aničić, N., Textile industry and coronavirus – the impact of the pandemic on sales performance: a case study of Inditex, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 259–266,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202237

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Article: Investigation of the changes in reflective properties of reflective tapes due to various effects

Authors: OKSAN ORAL, ESRA DIRGAR, NILGUN OZDIL
Pages 267–272 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202259
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

Mankind's need to protect itself from various dangers, cold, heat and other natural phenomena have survived from the first days of its existence to the present day. Materials with high visibility have also been developed primarily with the need for protection. These materials are widely used on bicycle wheels, road signs and traffic signs in daily life. Materials used in various textile products such as activewear, sportswear, children's clothing, accessories, hats, uniforms, foot and armbands, and backpacks make life easier by providing safety for the people who walk with their pets, as well as road workers, traffic policemen, firefighters, pedestrians and bicycle riders people who do sports and walking at night due to their busy life.
Many of the traffic accidents occurring today are due to the inability to notice individuals moving on the side of the road. In conditions where the lighting is not sufficient, the reflective feature of the clothes worn will allow people to be noticed more easily. Reflective tapes are used to add reflective properties to clothes. However, these tapes may lose their reflective properties as a result of the various effects they are exposed to. A performance loss that may occur in reflective tape properties due to these effects will put the wearer's life at risk. For this reason, in this study, the changes in the reflective properties of retroreflective tapes after various effects were investigated.
Keywords: retroreflectivity, reflective tapes, safety clothing, high visibility, knitted fabric, woven fabric

Citation: Oral, O., Dirgar, E., Ozdil, N., Investigation of the changes in reflective properties of reflective tapes due to various effects, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 267–272,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202259

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Article: Evaluation of copper electrodes for biomedical monitoring systems

Authors: RALUCA MARIA AILENI, IUKSEL RASIT, CRISTINA STROE
Pages 273–277 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202298
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

This paper presents several aspects of in vivo biocompatibility tests using the animal model, considering conductive electrodes based on cotton fabric and a conductive paste-based polymeric matrix with copper microparticles that offer the potential to be used in medical devices. Additionally, this work presents a potential application of the electrodes for temperature sensors using the Arduino development board. In addition, after performing in vivo tests, analysis of the primary irritation scores, animal irritation scores, and cumulative irritation index showed that the electrodes resulted in a negligible measurement of perceived skin irritation.
Keywords: textile, electrodes, conductive, biocompatibility testing, in vivo

Citation: Aileni, R.M., Rasit, I., Stroe, C., Evaluation of copper electrodes for biomedical monitoring systems, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 273–277,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202298


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Article: The elasticity distribution of under-band based on pressure comfort and breast support performance for seamless sports bras

Authors: XIAOFANG LIU, XIAOFEN JI, YUXIU YAN, QI ZHOU
Pages 278–285 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202244
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

Seamless knitted sports bra is becoming popular for its high performance in tactility and pressure comfort, however, it also encounters the problem of insufficient support. To improve the support performance, it is always knitted with strong elastic material in a reduced size than the body dimension, which will generate much pressure on the body, leading to discomfort. As the pressure distribution may affect the pressure comfort and support performance of the sports bra, this study aimed to explore novel information in optimizing the pressure comfort and support performance by applying elasticity distribution. 4 sports bras with different elasticity distribution on the under-band were developed to compare with the one without elasticity distribution, and 12 healthy women were involved as subjects. The pressure distribution and pressure comfort sensations both in static and dynamic conditions, and the reduction of breast displacement (RBD) of 5 sports bras were measured and analysed by ANOVA analysis. The results indicated that the pressure distribution, the pressure comfort and RBD were effectively changed by elasticity distribution. Bra D with a high Young’s modulus on the side area of the under-band was ideal and typical both in pressure comfort and RBD.
Keywords: seamless knitted, sports bra, under-band, elasticity distribution, pressure comfort, breast support

Citation: Liu, X., Ji, X., Yan, Y., Zhou, Q., The elasticity distribution of under-band based on pressure comfort and breast support performance for seamless sports bras, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 278–285,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202244

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Article: Consuming perception analysis of the yoga wear using fuzzy AHP model

Authors: HAO TANG, WENJUAN LI, SHUANG LIU, YAN HONG, CHUAN JIANG
Pages 286–295 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202285
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

In this paper, we propose to analyse the consumer perception of yoga wear and then improve its design based on the demand-driven design principle. For this purpose, we break down the problem into three levels: Goal Level (development of the new yoga wear), Requirement Level, and Design Solution Level (garment design solutions corresponding to the requirements of the Requirement Level). For the requirement level, we take into account the FEA (functional, expressive and aesthetic) factors for the consumer perception analysis. Due to the hierarchical characteristics of the analysis, we propose a fuzzy AHP (analytic hierarchy process) approach for the related data analysis. By using the AHP model, we can analyse requirements alongside their solutions in design alongside their respective weights. 50 evaluators (yogis) and 20 designers took part in the experiments. Similar design solutions and performance evaluation of the solutions were defined through consumer research and subjective evaluation experiments with standard procedures. We hope that this paper will guide the analysis and development of yoga wear design.
Keywords: FEA considerations, yoga wear design, fuzzy AHP, perception analysis, conceptual model

Citation: Tang, H., Li, W., Liu, S., Hong, Y., Jiang, C., Consuming perception analysis of the yoga wear using fuzzy AHP model, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 286–295,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202285

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Article: Slit tear resistance of leather used in upholstery manufacturing

Authors: MARIANA COSTEA, ARINA SEUL, AURA MIHAI
Pages 296–302 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202275
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

The paper presents experimental research on the slit tear resistance of leather used for producing upholstery. A finite element analysis is done by simulating the product's behaviour, considering different factors and parameters, and materials are classified according to the normal stress results. The maximum force exerted during the tearing of the specimen has been observed at the SATRA tensile testing machine, with STM 466ST attachment and digital software control. The load at break, the extension at break, Young's Modulus, and the load-distance graphs were registered and the medium values were calculated. The Taguchi method based on orthogonal arrays was used to maximize the material characteristics significant for this type of analysis.
Keywords: leather for upholstery, slit tear test, Taguchi method, finite element analysis

Citation: Costea, M., Seul, A., Mihai, A., Slit tear resistance of leather used in upholstery manufacturing, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 296–302,   http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202275

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Article: The mathematical study of compression behaviours of silicone rubber composites reinforced by warp-knitted spacer fabrics

Authors: ZHOU ZI-XIANG, CHEN SI
Pages 303–309 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.2022138
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

To synthetically investigate the compressive mechanism of warp knitted spacer fabric reinforced silicone rubber matrix composite (SRWSF) under 20% deformation, a compression meso-mechanics theoretical model was established in this paper. The silicone rubber was processed as isotropic material according to the nonlinear constitutive equation, the spacer yarn was assumed as a continuous uniform element. The compression meso-mechanics theoretical model consists of the mechanical model of silicone rubber and the compression model of warp knitted spacer fabric (WSF), based on the Euler-Bernoulli beam theory and the Spence Invariant constitutive model theory. To verify the feasibility of the compression meso-mechanics theoretical model of SRWSF, the compression test of SRWSF was carried out. The simulated compression stress-strain curve was compared with the results of the experiment. The result shows that the compression theoretical model has a high agreement with the experimental result under 20% strain, as compared with the Polynomial fitting curve. This phenomenon indicates that the compression theoretical model established in this study can reasonably simulate the actual compression behaviours within 20% deformation for SRWSF. Moreover, the theoretical model can help understand the compression mechanism of SRWSF and optimise the designing of silicone-rubber-matrix composite reinforced by WSF for cushioning applications.
Keywords: warp-knitted spacer fabric, silicone-rubber matrix, compression meso-mechanics model, Euler-Bernoulli beam, Spence Invariant theory

Citation: Zi-Xiang, Z., Si, C., The mathematical study of compression behaviours of silicone rubber composites reinforced by warp-knitted spacer fabrics, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 303–309,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.2022138

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Article: Research into the effects of pigment printing parameters on sensorial comfort to guide garment designers in the apparel industry

Author: ARZU KILIÇ
Pages 310–320 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.2022131
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

The printing process, which is an aesthetically significant process subprocess in garment design, has the potential to affect the physical properties and sensory comfort of the fabric. Due to its low cost and very fast process period and the fact that it is environmentally conscious, pigment printing is widely used in the textile industry. This study it’s aimed to guide the designers in the selection of printing type for piece printing according to the fabric type by considering the print area and print pattern in the apparel industry. For this purpose, the effects of commonly used pigment printing pastes on the physical properties and sensorial comfort in knit fabrics of different constructions were studied. To that end, two different patterns were applied to three knit fabrics with different constructions by using three different pigment printing methods to assess several features of the fabrics, namely, print quality, air permeability, roughness, compressibility and bending. As a result of this study, it was observed that the printing application method and print pattern design have a significant impact on the handle properties of the fabric. Consequently, it was revealed that it is necessary to take into account the printing application method and print pattern design in the process of printed clothing design. Among the print types evaluated in this study, the best print type was determined in terms of sensorial comfort and physical properties. In addition, suggestions were made on the issues to be considered during the print design of print types with worse comfort and physical properties.
Keywords: sensorial comfort, printing, air permeability, roughness, compressibility, bending, print design

Citation: Kiliç, A., Research into the effects of pigment printing parameters on sensorial comfort to guide garment designers in the apparel industry, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 310–320,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.2022131

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Article: Non-invasive analytical methods applied in the study of cultural heritage artefacts

Authors: BAHODIR SAFAROV, LILIANA INDRIE, MONICA COSTEA, ALEXANDRU TURZA, KOMIL AVAZOV, STEFAN BAIAS, DORINA CAMELIA ILIEȘ, MIHAELA ZDRINCA, EMILIA PANTEA, GABRIELA ILIEȘ, NICOLAIE HODOR, ANA CORNELIA PERES
Pages 321–331 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202220
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

Ethnographic heritage textiles may be subject to risks generated in particular by various factors in close connection with the microclimate of the storage and exposure areas. In accordance with the current European trends of pest prevention and reduction and response to the infestation/contamination of the cultural heritage, the research direction of this study aimed at investigating the degradation of some women’s clothing items, around 80–100 year-old, made of natural fibres, namely cotton. Throughout this paper, an essential aspect was taken into account for establishing a preventive or curative conservation strategy, namely the characterization of the fabric from which the three shirts are made. Thus, some physical and structural characteristics were determined by making use of different types of analyses: FTIR spectroscopy, the spectra specific for cotton; the microbiological analyses showed the presence of Bacillus subtilis and Rhizobium radiobacter, Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pyogenes, which are not considered pathogenic or toxigenic to humans with the normal function of the immune system.
Keywords: textiles, cultural heritage, non-invasive, conservation, fungi, FTIR

Citation: Safarov, B., Indrie, L., Costea, M., Turza, A., Avazov, K., Baias, S., Ilieș, D.C., Zdrinca, M., Pantea, E., Ilieș, G., Hodor, N., Peres, A.C., Non-invasive analytical methods applied in the study of cultural heritage artefacts, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 321–331,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202220

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Article: Application of grape seed coating for antibacterial cotton fabric

Authors: FEYZA AKARSLAN KODALOĞLU, HILAL DEMİRALAY
Pages 332–336 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202217
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

Microorganisms can reproduce rapidly on textile surfaces. It is known that textile surfaces used especially in hospitals cause the spread of infections and pose a danger. In recent years, instead of synthetic and heavy metal applications, the interest in obtaining environmentally friendly and natural plant-based antibacterial materials and textile applications has been increasing day by day. Grape skins and seeds, rich in polyphenolic compounds, are waste products from winemaking. The evaluation of such waste products is of great importance. In this study, grape seed, which is stated to have antibacterial activity in many studies, was applied to cotton textile material with the coating method and it was aimed to gain antibacterial properties to the fabric. As a result of the colour fastness tests performed according to the ISO 105-C06 standard, it was not observed that the coating process had a negative effect on the washing fastness of the fabrics. The wash fastness value of all coated fabrics is 5. As a result of the washing fastness test, it was seen that the coated fabrics were resistant to washing. As a result of the friction fastness tests performed according to the TS EN ISO 105-X12 standard, it was observed that the coated fabrics were resistant to friction. When the breaking strength and breaking elongation values of the coated fabrics were examined as a result of the strength test performed according to the TS EN ISO 13934-1 standard, it was observed that the tensile strength and elongation at break of the coated fabrics increased. Antibacterial tests against E. coli and S. aureus bacteria were performed on treated fabrics according to the AATCC 100 antibacterial test method. It is obtained as a result of the coating process for 60% coverage. As a result of the coating process, better results were obtained against E.coli bacteria. It was observed that the antibacterial properties improved as the coating rate increased. As a result of the tests, antibacterial activity was provided against both bacteria. An acceptable level of antibacterial activity was detected in the antibacterial tests of the washed fabrics.
Keywords: grape seed, coating, cotton fabric, antibacterial activity

Citation: Kodaloğlu, F.A., Demiralay, H., Application of grape seed coating for antibacterial cotton fabric, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 332–336,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202217

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Article: Research on modelling and stability of seamless dust removal system based on generalized system

Authors: HAIWEN MAO, YAN HONG
Pages 337–345 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202236
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

The dedusting system is the parameter selection and the degree of cooperation between several dust collector components. The stability of the system plays a decisive role in the dust removal efficiency of the whole system. The existing dust removal system model is a mechanism model, and the bag size, filter bag distribution and other parameters are optimized by simulation results. It cannot provide a model reference for the use of a new filter bag. In this research, the generalized model of the dust removal system is established by MATLAB. The factors affecting the service life of filter bag and dust removal efficiency of dust removal system are analysed. A differential equation is used to describe the influence of these factors. The dynamic model of the dust removal system is established. When considering the problem of flue gas emission, the algebraic equation with dust is constructed. The model of the bag-type dust removal system is described by a generalized system. Finally, the model’s stability is analysed using the method of generalized system analysis, and the necessary and sufficient conditions for the stability of the model are obtained. Given the advantages of a seamless filter bag in filtration efficiency and mechanical properties, the stability of the system is studied. The results show that the system stability increases by 55.4% and 41.9% respectively. The performance of the filter bag is introduced into the modelling of the dust removal system, which plays a key role in the overall evaluation of the filter bag.
Keywords: seamless filter bag, generalized system, dust removal system, system stability

Citation: Mao, H., Hong, Y., Research on modelling and stability of seamless dust removal system based on generalized system, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 337–345,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202236

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Article: Emotions and fashion: how garments induce feelings to the sensory system

Authors: DUJE KODŽOMAN, ALENKA PAVKO ČUDEN, VANJA ČOK
Pages 346–355 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202253
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

Emotional design is the concept of creating a design that evokes emotions, which results in pleasant user experiences. It is important because emotions influence decision-making and affect both our attention and memory. Although clothing has a direct impact on our mood and attitude, fashion is rarely given attention as an area where emotions play an important role in the design process. We have summarized the existing data on this topic using a secondary research method. This review aims to explore whether garments induce senses and sensory experiences, what is the importance of emotional branding and brand experience, and how fashion brands employ sense marketing. After a theoretical review of the literature, in the results section, we present a brief overview of evoking the senses with specific examples from the fashion industry. The findings of the review indicate that the relationship between emotions, senses and fashion can be seen through: the colour of the fabric (sense of sight), the store interior (sense of sight and touch), the scents in the store (sense of smell), the interaction between skin and fabric or touching the textiles (sense of touch), and finally the music in the store (sense of hearing).
Keywords: fashion, emotion, senses, sensory evaluation, sensory system

Citation: Kodžoman, D., Čuden, A.P., Čok, V., Emotions and fashion: how garments induce feelings to the sensory system, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 346–355,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202253

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Article: Quantification and analysis of carbon neutralization in mulberry and silk in China

Authors: LIU SHUYI, LIU JUNRAN, LI QIZHENG, BAO WEI, XU NUO, WANG XIAOPENG, WANG LAILI
Pages 356–362 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202258
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

With the concern of global warming, efforts are increasingly focused on understanding and addressing carbon emission in the life cycle of silk products. Whereas, the carbon sequestration effects of mulberry and silk are rarely mentioned in the previous studies on the carbon footprint of silk products. In this regard, this study constructed a biomass method to adequately evaluate the carbon sequestration effects of mulberry and silk produced in China. An application demonstration was conducted in the area of mulberry fields and the cocoon yield of the silk industry in China from 1990 to 2021. The results indicate that mulberry fields in China fixed 875.9608 million tons of CO2 from 1990 to 2017, while silk in cocoons produced in China fixed a total of 5.9528 million tons of CO2. These vast quantities of carbon trapped in mulberry leaves enter the silk, the silkworm chrysalis and silkworm droppings, as well as other by-products as silkworms ingest, grow, and spin cocoons. This demonstrates that increased exploitation of sericulture by-products can also contribute to carbon sequestration. Besides, the influence of the silk product's lifespan should be taken into account when quantifying and analysing the carbon neutralization of silk. Therefore, extending the usage life of silk products as long as feasible can also have a great effect on the carbon sequestration of silk products.
Keywords: carbon storage, carbon neutralization, mulberry, silk, temporary carbon storage effect

Citation: Shuyi, L., Junran, L., Qizheng, L., Wei, B., Nuo, X., Xiaopeng, W., Laili, W., Quantification and analysis of carbon neutralization in mulberry and silk in China, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 356–362,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202258

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Article: Anticipating financial distress in monster sectors of Pakistan’s economy: an application of logit

Authors: EHSANUL HASSAN, MUHAMMAD AWAIS-E-YAZDAN, RAMONA BIRAU, LUCIA PALIU-POPA
Pages 363–370 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.2022105
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

It’s always been worthwhile for companies to identify significant predictors of financial distress before its occurrence. This study intends to analyse the scenario of financial distress prediction by focusing on Pakistan. The sample of the study covers companies from the three biggest sectors (textile, sugar and cement)listed on the Pakistan stock exchange for the period of 2005 to 2020. The financial ratios are divided into four main categories of profitability, liquidity, leverage and asset efficiency with a total of 18 financial ratios. The results indicate that the financial ratio produced model accuracy rates of 90.11 percent for the first year prior to bankruptcy, 87.72 percent for the second year prior to bankruptcy, 85.32 percent for the third year prior to bankruptcy, 82.36 percent for the fourth year prior to bankruptcy and 79.57 percent for the fifth year prior to bankruptcy. The results also indicate that profitability, liquidity, leverage, and asset efficiency, are significant predictors of financial distress. The study provides a useful financial distress prediction model for policymakers, company managers, investors, lenders and creditors in the Pakistan stock exchange.
Keywords: Pakistan stock exchange, financial distress, logistic regression, bankruptcy, non-financial companies, economic sustainability, financial obligations, textile industry

Citation: Hassan, E., Awais-E-Yazdan, M., Birau, R., Paliu-Popa, L., Anticipating financial distress in monster sectors of Pakistan’s economy: an application of logit, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 363–370,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.2022105

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Article: Antimicrobial treatment for textiles based on flavonoid-mediated silver nanoparticles dispersions

Authors: MIHAELA-CRISTINA LITE, RODICA ROXANA CONSTANTINESCU, NICOLETA BADEA, ELENA-CORNELIA TĂNĂSESCU, IRINA-MARIANA SĂNDULACHE, OVIDIU GEORGE IORDACHE
Pages 371–377 
DOI: 10.35530/IT.074.03.202333
Published online: June 2023

Abstract

The use of “green” reagents for silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) synthesis represents an attractive alternative to conventional methods, due to the abundance of available biomass with reducing properties. Herein, a flavonoid compound, hesperidin, was used to produce AgNPs, and the resulting dispersion was applied to textile fabrics and tested for its antimicrobial properties. Different ratios of flavonoid to the silver precursor (v:v) were prepared. The formation of the nanoparticles was indicated by the presence of the SPR specific band in the UV–Vis spectra. For the synthesis optimization, the DLS technique was used to determine the size and polydispersity of the AgNPs, while zeta potential measurements were performed to assess their physical stability. For the dispersion with the optimal ratio, particles with the average size (Zav) of 93.55±3.51 nm were obtained, with a polydispersity index (PdI) of 0.259. For this ratio, the value of the zeta potential (ξ.) was –28.80±1.54 mV, indicating that the dispersion is physically stable. The nanoparticles were further characterized using SEM-EDS techniques to confirm the particles' nature and evaluate their morphology. The AgNPs were deposited on textile samples, by direct soaking into the dispersion. The distribution of the AgNPs on the textile samples fibres was evaluated by SEM and the chromatic parameters L*a*b* were determined compared to the untreated samples. Antimicrobial tests were conducted against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Bacillus subtilis strains, according to the ISO 20743:2013 standard, and percentages of bacterial reduction up to 99.99% were obtained.
Keywords: silver nanoparticles, flavonoids, hesperidin, dispersions, antimicrobial textiles

Citation: Lite, M.-C., Constantinescu, R.R., Badea, N., Tănăsescu, E.-C., Săndulescu, I.-M., Iordache, O.G., Antimicrobial treatment for textiles based on flavonoid-mediated silver nanoparticles dispersions, In: Industria Textila, 2023, 74, 3, 371–377,  http://doi.org/10.35530/IT.074.03.202333

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